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Viewing 8 replies - 601 through 615 (of 633 total)
  • Whitten
    Participant

    ORIGINAL: santa claus

    Not to be an idiot here, but sound engineers and producers do not judge what good sound is or not.

    OK, I beg to differ.
    http://www.faderwear.com/guides/aggressivedrums/drummer.shtml
    http://www.faderwear.com/guides/aggressivedrums/cymbals.shtml

    But it’s your prerogative. Just trying to help with some advice hard won.
    No problem.

    Whitten
    Participant

    Just as an aside…..
    All the live sound engineers and record producers I’ve worked with have hated super loud hi-hats.
    They get in the snare mic and overheads and ruin the drum sound.
    I’ve played plenty of loud, thrashy rock, and always try and balance the bass drum and snare to be louder than the hi-hats.
    Even in Death Metal the hi-hats are not the most important sound on the kit.

    Also, unfortunately to get the best out of e-drums you do have to adjust your technique.
    I’m with you, it’s a pain in the a$$, but a sad fact.
    In reality, you do not get any benefit from smashing the pads. Certainly not the same benefit you get with acoustic drums.
    In fact in my experience you get less accuracy, double triggering problems and a sore wrist. You may also be shortening the life of your e-kit.

    Whitten
    Participant

    I really don’t think you should hit the hi-hat hard.
    It’s a bad thing on real drums and on an e-kit it is a wasted effort.
    I find playing e-drums quite difficult actually, and tend to over hit them myself.
    The best results are when you treat an e-kit differently to real drums, and play less hard, concentrating on accuracy.
    I only had the TD20 for a short while, but found the hi-hat the hardest thing to dial in.
    I ended up editing the foot control data quite a bit. I also ended up laying in to the hi-hat pads much less heavily and got better results straight away.
    It’s something worth practicing.

    As I said in a much earlier post, getting the hi-hats right (between Superior and the TD20) takes a bit of tweaking.

    Whitten
    Participant

    In Pro Tools you go to the left hand track column. There you can select ‘notes’ or ‘velocity’, but also controller. So you should select foot control and have a look at the data on the track.
    As an aside, having just used a TD20 with Superior, I can’t say I liked the sound of hi-hats at 127.
    You can create a wash of swishy hi-hats at any velocity, and the hats at 127 sound hard and unbalanced (with the rest of the kit) to me.

    Whitten
    Participant

    What are the main outs of your Motu unit connected to?

    Whitten
    Participant

    It’s the opposite of on/off data.
    It’s a feature where if you move a wheel on your keyboard, or the pedal of an e-drum hi-hat, data is continuously sent to the Toontrack software.

    If you used the more standard on/off midi message instead of ‘continuous control’, you would only be able to trigger two hi-hat sounds (open and closed).

    Whitten
    Participant

    ORIGINAL: halcyo

    Mr. Whitten, I find it surprising that you don’t own a TD-20 already!

    I’m addicted to acoustic drums.

    Whitten
    Participant

    I’m interested too.
    The TD20 is great, but $15,000 retail in Australia.

Viewing 8 replies - 601 through 615 (of 633 total)

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