tazinnuedo
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do you need 8 zones? or one and the eight drummers will play with the same sound?
the ikea manna place mat is for the look… it may be dampen a little bit the cymbal but less than than the bitumen tape…
to solder the bitumen tape to the place mat… i used a very strong double sided tape… there are some wires into it …
i think some design are not destinate to build a full kit… but can give some ideas…
a pvc pipe is not cheap… so you have to find it…
for lugs it’s the same…
some can find new 10 and 12 toms for 35 or 40 euros at thomann’s store… ok you’re kit will be cheaper… than a pvc pipe drum with lugs and hoops bought separatly… but where is the DIY spirit!!!!!???
hi!
the td3 is not able to recognize a 3 zones cymbal like a cy15… it doesn’t have the technology… but there is an alternative…even if the td3 works with a 3 zones cymbal, you’ll have to use 2 inputs ( all roland modules work in this way)
so what you can do is build your own cymbal with two separate inputs… bow and edge will work together on the same input… (look at keith raper’s design to convert a piezo like a switch) in parallel on the edge you can build a choke switch… no problem…
on the second input you will have the bell sound…
the difference between the roland technology and this method is in the last one bell input will be independant with the bow/edge input…
with roland’s technology bell inpout is dépendant (you have to hit the bell but the vibrations when you hit it must be sense by the bow piezo)
here, even if there is no vibration on the bow piezo when you hit the bell… the bell will work
in comparaison, it will be two independant cymbal in one
you will have to setup the module with the xtalkcancel etc etc not to trigger the bow to hit the bell and viceversa and try to isolate these 2 piezo…
(you can build an independant bell upper the ride to completly isolate them…)
one piezo for the head and an other one into the shell for the rim… you have to setup your module : input type = piezo/piezo
check your user manual ( you can choose between piezo/piezo piezo/switch switch/piezo switch/switch)
so you can configure all your pad like that… to have to sound by pad… (not sure because i don’t have this module… but sometimes want to have two of them with a midi merger…20 inputs )
i think you will have to use 2 inputs to do a three zone pad with an alesis io… and not sure the result will be good… how to put two piezos in the shell and not have crosstalk in a same pad…very difficult to isolate i think
roland… avaliable on the snare input (for a td10 3 ,don’t know if td12 20 it’s only on snare or for all the inputs… ) when you hit the rim…if the velocity is below a rim thresold you have calibrated… you will get the cross stick sound if the velocity is over the rim thresold you will get rimshot…
for example: rim velocity when you hit it 0
yamaha the rim part is separated in two parts… there are two switch around the rim… one for each sound… but i don’t know how it os wired…
there are pieces of wood… 10mm plywood… they are screwed with the shell… the screws are inside the lugs… head piezos are above the plywood,on a pmma plate, isolated with three mini silentblocks… rim piezos are on the plywood, at the center, below the head piezos…
rca is a mono plug…
there are 10 input + hh control…(without main output…) so 11 cables…2.5 ,3 meters each choose directly cables which have three wires into for each even if you plan to build a mono pad… one day you will want to change and the cable will be good for a multizone pad…
for jacks : stéreo jack (they’ve got three rings)
if you can, change your rca plug and replace them by stéreo jack female connector…and use stereo jack/stereo jack cables
you need one rca for a mono pad or cymbal without choke
rca you need two rca for dual zone pads or cymbals… so there will be two connector for one cymbal… st jack
jack: rca bow rca bell
sleeve sleeve sleeve
ring tip
tip tip
so, 11 cables and 22 stereo jacks plug
you can plug your dual zone cymbal onto one input of your i/o alesis… you have to setup the input… (the module input has to be setup for piezo/piezo pad…check your user’s manual) you have to use a stéreo cable (three wires )and a stereo jacks
tip of the jack : ceramic part of the bow piezo
sleeve : yellow part of the bow and bell piezo
ring : ceramic part of the bell piezo
you can invert the wires on the bow piezo (tip : yellow part of bow piezo and sleeve to the ceramic part of the bow piezo) if you feel it works better like that (roland pads are wired liked that for their dual pad and cymbal zones)
it should work like that…
8″=20,32 cm
10″=25,4 cm
12″= 30,48 cm
14″= 35,56 cm
pvc pipes have standard diameter… so if if you find a piece of pvc pipe which is smaller than drum shell diameter, it’s good!!
for example: pvc pipe 250mm good to build a 10″ chell pvc pipe 200mm good to build a 8″ shell…
pvc pipe 315mm impossible to build a 12″ shell… you have to reduce the diameter… difficult to do…
i have not found upper size for pvc pipe…
and you should have to find them yourself because these pipes are very expensive (250,315) just for one or two shells
if i remember (but not sure), Jesaipa (guy who has done this design) had tried to reduce pvc pipe diameter… by cutting the pvc pipe in diagonal…then he slided it, and glued it… when it’s dry, you have to cut one more time in the shell …so you have to begin with an deeper shell than you finally want
there is a tmc6 witch wiil go to trig some percussions…( cowbell, woodblocks or barpad, splashs, second snare…)
but soon
but the upside of he cymbal is not smooth??? there is the thickness of the switch??? or is it encrusted ???
is ot possible to see it beside???? to show the thickness? is it playable???
it looks good..
good luck to create a sensitive switch…and flat too…if you want to put it on the upside. …very difficult…
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