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[Robshi]

On a pc you can get a free bit of software called asio4all which enable you to run low latencies with non asio souncards. I used it on my laptop to get to low latencies when not using external audio device if I wanted to quickly do something on the fly.

Maybe they do something for macs. I agree with the guys above though, ideally an audio device will give you the best results. Maybe asio4all could get you started till you get an audio device.

[Robshi]

I think it all has to do with positional sensing. This is not an issue on a kick drum but on snares and toms the peizo needs to be in the center of the head to enable positional sensing to work. I guess that on acoustic triggers they sacrifice the positional sensing for ease of use.

Just my thoughts, there may be another reason.

Cheers

Rob

[Robshi]

I just got some really strong double sided tape. It sticks so well that i have to pry them off with a knife if I need to adjust anything.

[Robshi]

My peizos are attched directly to the surface of metal cymbal and then I put my dampening clear plastic sheet ober it with double sided tape so it is not in project box but it is offred some protection by the plastic sheeting. The peizos are ceramic so can be scratched etc. I’d make sure you gave them some protection even if just some tape over them.

Also I found that after a bit of hitting the wires can come off so I applied a small amount of hot glue from a g;ue gun to where the wire is soldered to the peizo which firmed up the joints a bit.

Rob

[Robshi]

I have used 30mm ones but for my dual ride I think it was one 30mm and a 20 or 25mm one. Probably either would be fine may just have a but less sensitivity but that could be a good thing. Mine can be a tad “live” at times.

Still got to get the hand of tweaking my settings.

Rob

[Robshi]

Hi

For single zone e-cymbals it couldn’t be easier. Simply attach a peize to the underside of the cymbal and wire it up to a jack socket.

Things get a bit more advanced if you want dual zone and the ability to choke.

Rob

[Robshi]

I reckon I was able to convert a drum for about £4-5 (i’m in the UK). I went for DIY triggers partly for cost and partly for the aesthetics of having all the electronics hidden internally.

AT the end of the day I guess it depends how much you value you time over your money. The cheapest option is probably to go DIY but the easier option is to buy. I get good results from my DIY but they have to be tweaked everynow and then where my build quality goes off (ie tightening screws etc).

I use a Roland td3 unit which does me well, though if I had the cash I would upgrade.

THe trigger io has 10 inputs and is possibly the cheapest option out there so may do you well but I have no experience with it myself.

http://www.alesis.com/triggerio

Don’t think it has any samples built in but my guess is you are using it with toontrack stuff anyway.

Hope that helps

[Robshi]

Hi. I convertedmy Pearl Export a while back so I’ll give you what tips I can to get you started.

You can also try here

http://www.vdrums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=0140e1a83a012a37798d50cffced5d6c&f=48

Full of advice and help.

Anyway to answer your questions. The peizos I use are about 30mm in diameter and do a great job. The front bass head can stay on still.
The crosstalk issue is sorted out in the same way as you would with a conventional e-drum kit via the module.

Pending on the kind of hardware you are using you may even find less crosstalk.

For example I only have one tom mounted on my kick the other 2 are stand mounted/floor toms and so the only one I have to worry about crosstalk on is the one on the kick itself as thats the only place where vibrations can pass between peizos.

Leaving the front head on the kick will have no effect upon the system at all.

How are you making your triggers? I used a similar design to how roland do it with internal triggers and cones. I found that believe it or not garden knealing mats make great cones if you cut and shape as required then internally mounting a bracket across the drum using the internal log screw holes means you can get the cone in the center of the drum.

Hope this makes sense. If you need me to clarify just let me know.

Have fun doing the conversion.

Rob

[Robshi]

Hi guys some great conversions.

I was originally going to use ddrum triggers just like this but thought the more I researched the more I thought I’d try an internal conversion instead. If you can even do a bit of DIY and can solder (or can learn, it’s not too much soldering required) you can produce great results for a vastly reduced cost. it probably cost me less than £4-£5 per drum.

My components were. Jack plugs and piezo from maplin.
Garden knealing mat to make cones from.
Some wood and screws and other bits I had lying around to make internal brackets.

Work great! Have no pics at the moment.

Got loads of great advice here

http://vdrums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=81c29ccd6331ed9490693287af772a85&f=48

If you have the money it will be less involved to buy the ddrum triggers but I wanted to save money and the process of making it all was fun!

Rob

[Author]

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