PFozz
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The first schematic does what you described (2 mono pads into 1 piezo/switch input).
Though, I’ve built the piezo/piezo to piezo/switch adaptor only (2nd schematic). This one provides a way to plug a dual piezo/piezo trigger into a piezo/switch input (for example, a dual mesh head pad into a TD8 tom input) … and it works perfect for me 🙂
Best.
www.eareckon.com
If you want to keep your acoustic cymbal ringing, you may try to fix a http://www.toontrack.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=35470 using some double sided foam tape.
Place it under the cymbal, next to the bell.
Since the cymbal won’t be damped, it will produce a lot of vibrations, though.
I’m not sure you’ll be satisfied with such a setup but it’s probably worth the try.
Best.
PS : I’ll provide some info about how to build an e-cymbal from an acoustic cymbal ASAP. Unfortunately, it’s thought as a permanent modification.
www.eareckon.com
Hey Taz,
Actually, this is how Roland MH pads are built.
It should especially improve the positional sensing accuracy.
Best.
www.eareckon.com
I don’t use this cymbal anymore (I removed the edge switch stuff and use it as a simple crash). Actually, this kind of home made switch doesn’t like to be smashed for years 😉
That’s why I’ve built another 3 zone cymbal, and I plan to write something about it, as soon as my 2nd ride is ready.
Though, I want to try something new to convert acoustic cymbals and I need at least 20°C outdoor and no rain to work with some stinky polyester resin. Hopefully, summer should come nextly…
Stay tuned 😉
Best.
www.eareckon.com
Does the second bell’s added height cause problems with the swing of the cymbal?
Drill a large hole in your second bell and it will be ok.
Hope this picture of my first 3-zone hihat will illustrate the idea :
Best.
www.eareckon.com
If you don’t want to mold a dome, you may use a small dish made of something that is solid enough to survive to your sticks (a small wood dish will do the job).
You may also cut the bell from a practice cymbal.
Best.
www.eareckon.com
1. I would try something between 10k and 100k (but that’s just a supposition).
2. I’m not sure about decreasing the R1 value…
www.eareckon.com
I just edited my previous post (“around” was confusing and I replaced it by “before or after”) 😉
The comment about R2 isn’t wrong. Actually, you can reduce the “rim sensitivity” by decreasing the R2 value, but you must keep R2 above a minimum value. That’s why you may change R2 for a 100K resistor and add a pot before or after R2 but you can’t simply replace R2 by a pot. R2 won’t be less than 100k with a 1M pot and a 100k resistor in serial connection.
Adding a pot between the Aux Piezo (+) and R1 will have the same effect (it will reduce the “rim sensitivity”).
About the sensitivity of your main piezo… Yes, a pot between this piezo (+) and your module will reduce the sensitivity (and the tiny pot present on most Yamaha rubber pads provides this functionality, btw).
www.eareckon.com
Hi Michael,
I’m so glad to see you in this forum
Thanx again for all the great stuff you shared with the community !
Cheers.
www.eareckon.com
I haven’t tried the second schematic yet. The first version works like a charm into my 3-zone hihat (I’m using the schematic with the yellow/grey drawn piezos), and it should work for your tom aswell.
You may add a pot between the aux piezo (+) and R1 (instead of a pot before or after R2), if needed.
Best.
www.eareckon.com
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