PFozz
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Hi Mike,
This is an amazing job you did on this set!
Thanx for sharing,
All the best.
www.eareckon.com
Hi,
Piezo transducers don’t act as switches.
They are “electrical generators” and they can’t be compared to push buttons.
A velocity sensitive keyboard is usually made of 2 switches per key. One of them is ‘on’ when the key is released and the other one goes ‘on’ when the key is fully pressed.
The velocity depends on the time lapse between the start of a pressure (the first switch ‘goes off’) and the end of it (the second switch ‘goes on’).
The only thing you may get from an old MIDI keyboard is a hihat variable controller stuff made from the modwheel/continuous controller circuitry. If you’re extremely lucky, the needed pot value for this (exotic) circuitry will be 25k. Otherwise, you will have to build your own controller from a pot that suits this circuitry.
You may also build a hihat controller from an analog joystick (replace one of the pots by your home made hihat controller) and use it in combination with a Joystick-to-MIDICC freeware.
Once you have this standalone hihat unit, an old module will do the job (Roland PM-16 / Alesis D4-DM5 / …).
Some are available for 60-80€ sometimes.
Actually, my first edrum set was made of a modified Yamaha DD-12, some basic home made triggers, and a home made hihat controller linked to a modified analog joystick. It was a long time ago, but I remember how fun it was to play with all those things…
Good luck!
Best regards.
www.eareckon.com
Hi Lidrummer,
How the choke capability works :
Here’s how most modules calculate what must be done :
Excited Main Piezo + Activated Switch (simultaneously) = [EDGE] the edge note is played/sent
Sleeping Main Piezo + Activated Switch = [CHOKE] all the sounds assigned to this multizone trigger stop playing and a KeyAftertouch MIDI message is sent.
Why it works :
Edge hits :
The PP to PS adapter converts the signal coming from the edge piezo to a “switch state”.
Since the edge zone isn’t dampened (no bitumen tape), the edge piezo will be far more excited if you hit the edge.
And if the sensitivity of the edge piezo is reduced (using a pot or a resistor), the “switch” will be activated on hits on the edge only.
Of course, if both the bow zone and the edge zone are equally dampened, the difference between a hit on the bow and a hit on the edge won’t be obvious.
Choking :
Piezo transducers react to bending actions.
Troubleshooting :
> I got the cymbal to choke if I hit the edge fairly hard.
The edge piezo is probably excited twice (double triggering). Firstly, check if the practice cymbal doesn’t slap back the acoustic cymbal or something like that. Then try to reduce the edge piezo sensitivity using a pot/resistor and/or a disc of double-sided foam tape between the piezo and the cymbal.
> I want to improve the consistency of choking while squeezing the edge.
You may try to extend the “choking area”. Cut an arc of circle out of metal or thin MDF. Place 2 pieces of foam at its extremities and another (smaller) one at the “middle” of this arc so the extremities touch the cymbal while the “middle” lay on the piezo. I haven’t tested that, but I plan to add something like that to some of my cymbals.
I hope this helps,
Best.
www.eareckon.com
Hi François,
It’s nice to see you here again 🙂
The french translation for “bitumen tape” is “Bande d’étanchéité goudronnée auto-adhesive à froid”.
I found it at “Castorama”.
Cheers!
PS : I’ve replied to your email.
www.eareckon.com
> What should be the consequences ?
There’s nothing you should worry about 😉
Best.
www.eareckon.com
And here’s a simple 1Zone splash.
Covering the bell is probably not a good idea, though 😉
Best.
www.eareckon.com
For those who still want an answer…
Yes, a piezo provides a signal that can be converted to a velocity value.
Best.
www.eareckon.com
Hi Vincent,
Thanx for the kind words!
It’s a nice kit you have, BTW. Thanx for sharing your free samples with everyone.
I hope you’ll carry out your TchakPoum project the way you want.
Best.
www.eareckon.com
Thanx Rogue 😉
> Do you mean I have to connect the two “+” of the piezos with a wire? or with a diode like circuit 1/3?
You should try with a diode.
> It seems you know how the circuit exactly works.
Actually, Keith Raper is the man of the situation 🙂
I’m formerly not into analog electronics but here’s what I understand from the schematics :
.D1 and D2 won’t allow a piezo xducer to make his buddy “buzz”.
.Q1 acts as a triggered switch : basically, if there’s enough current coming to its “base”, Q1 allow what’s coming from its collector to flow to its emitter.
.R1 limits the sensitivity (more the value is, less sensible will be the detection)
.R2 increases the sensitivity (more the value is, more sensible will be the detection)
In the 2nd circuit, the “main” piezo xducer determines the velocity of a hit, while the “aux” piezo xducer is use to trigger a kind of switch that determines which zone of your dual pad is played.
In circuits 1/3, if you’re playing the first mono pad, its piezo transducer is used to determine the velocity and basta.
If you’re playing the second pad, its piezo is used to determine the velocity of the hits and what’s coming from this same piezo will make the circuit “link” the ring and sleeve parts of your socket.
Hope this helps,
Best.
www.eareckon.com
The “rim detection” part of your circuit 2 seems to work.
Try to connect the rim piezo “+” (ceramic part) to the tip of your stereo plug.
Best.
www.eareckon.com
Circuits 1/3 are what you need.
It seems the “rim detection” part of your circuit isn’t sensitive enough, though.
You may try to reduce the R1 value (replace R1 by a pot to do it progressively).
Best.
www.eareckon.com
Please tell us what you want to get.
Do you want to plug a dual mesh head pad into a piezo/switch input or would you like to plug 2 mono pads into such an input ?
Best.
www.eareckon.com
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