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[PFozz]

Hi,
 
You’re welcome 🙂
And yes, the piezo in the first option is for the chick sound.
 
Best regards.

www.eareckon.com

[PFozz]

Hi,

Actually, there are at least 2 solutions…

The first one is something built around a 2 poles switch :

The idea was to build a beaterless foot trigger like described in this (very) old article :
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/1995_articles/diydrumpad.htm
You can then add a 2 poles switch inside this pedal and help to a basic circuitry, it is possible to get a kind of non variable hihat controller (switch) combined to a velocity sensitive foot trigger (piezo, …).
Here’s a diagram describing the circuitry :

‘Closed’, ‘Opened’ sockets are linked to 2 of your PM-16 inputs.
You need 1 more input for the piezo inside the pedal.
The hihat pad is linked to the ‘Pad’ socket (not directly to the module).

Here are some ‘vintage’ pictures of my first hihat controller 🙂

---

The 2nd solution… (a bit better, IMHO)

You can use the circuitry of an analog joystick to build a hihat controller.
A basic analog joystick is usually made of 2 pots and some buttons.
If you remove one of this pot and replace it by something like http://www.toontrack.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=35474 (or anything that is or include a hihat controller made of a variable resistor), you’ll have the needed hardware part of the solution.
Of course, the DIY project of your choice must be adapted in order to use a variable resistor that matches the pot removed from the joystick.

You will have to calibrate this modified joystick later, and the calibration process may not work if you just have 1 pot in your customized “joystick”. That’s why you shouldn’t remove the second pot or the buttons from the original joystick circuitry.

Once the hardware part is ready, you need a software that is capable to translate the joystick informations to MIDI.
My old freeware may do the job. You can download it http://edrum.for.free.fr/edp/InstallEDP12.exe.
Best regards.

www.eareckon.com

[PFozz]

Hi,
 
The Yamaha pads are wired this way :
 
Piezo + (Ceramic part) -> Tip
Piezo – (Brass part) -> Sleeve
 
The “rim” circuitry of a 3 zones pad acts as 2 switches. One of this “switch” is a simple one. The other one has a 10k resistor mounted in serial.
Both are linked to the Ring/Sleeve couple.
 
A dual piezo/switch pad will work as well.
To build a piezo/switch pad, your best bet is a KRC (Keith Raper’s Circuit) between the rim piezo and the jack socket (sleeve/ring).
This circuit is described in another thread.
 
Best regards.

www.eareckon.com

[PFozz]

Hi WHsnare,
 
I live in a house and I don’t have any neighbours downstairs (except a lazy cat that probably could sleep under a nuclear attack ^^).
Noone complains in the house, but everybody at home know how sad I would be without drums to hit 🙂
 
Actually, the wooden floor is not adapted to drums at all. My neighbours and I “enjoy” to talk about how rainy it is today, how early the cows and flies went out this year and mostly how easily the sound goes from house to house because of the wood. But this riser is very efficient. 
Of course, nothing is perfect but it drastically dampens the sound of my kick. No more complains, no SWAT especially coming from L.A. to kill me, …
Tony the Dude surely saved my life 🙂
 
Best regards.

www.eareckon.com

[PFozz]

Hi Krusen,

It’s theorically possible to build such a 3-ways trigger using only one input, if your module ‘knows’ what to do with such a thing 🙂
The Megadrum is an awesome project (many thanks to Dmitri, btw) and even if mine isn’t up-to-date (shame on me), the last version of the firmware seems to provide what you need to make these triggers work.
Here’s how I would try to build them :

HEAD/BOW (Zone 1) PIEZO -> Tip/Sleeve
Zone 2 PIEZO -> KRC -> Ring/Sleeve
Zone 3 PIEZO -> KRC -> 10k resistor -> Ring/Sleeve (the resistor should be connected in serial between one output of the KRC and the ring part of your jack plug)

For such a design, it’s obviously very important to avoid crosstalk between zone 2 and zone 3 (adding a resistor or a pot just after the Zone 2 piezo may help).

Best regards.

www.eareckon.com

[PFozz]

Hi,
 
I took this picture just after a quick setup.
I just wanted to show what the riser is intended to be used for 😉
Actually, my setup is built around a TD8, a PM-16 and I recently added a TriggerIO.
The PM16 is an excellent auxiliary TMI, though.
 
Best regards.
 

www.eareckon.com

[PFozz]

I don’t speak a word of German, but “Kalt selbstklebende Bitumen-Dichtungsbahn” may be the words
 
Best regards.

www.eareckon.com

[PFozz]

Hi all.
 
SlotH,
The bitumen tape do all the muffling. The place mat is just a way to hide the bitumen tape (and if you don’t like the ‘green effect’ on the back of your cymbal, you can use an antique gold spray paint on this place mat).
Your cymbal will work fine without the optional place mat.
The design is very quiet (quieter than muffling a cymbal with your hand or even a pillow).
 
BGibson72,
Let’s check that on your dual ride cymbal 🙂
 
.Put some bitumen tape everywhere under cymbal but not under the bell.
 
.Wiring :
Bow piezo -> Jack sleeve+tip
(The bow piezo must not be placed next to the edge, but next to the bell – Take a look at one of the pictures joined to the first post of this thread)
Bell piezo -> Keith Raper’s PP to PS circuit -> Jack sleeve+ring
 
Hope this helps,
Best.
 

www.eareckon.com

[PFozz]

Hi,

I don’t own such a game controller with pressure sensors. A pressure sensor (FSR) usually acts as a variable resistor while a piezo transducer produces a voltage. A pressure sensor must then be “fed” with a power source to be usefull (the output voltage depends on the applied pressure).
In triggering applications, a piezo transducer is used for its capability to produce electricity under bending action.
Theorically, it’s then strange to get something working correctly from a piezo replacing a pressure sensor 🙂

Anyway, could you please give some details about the results you get from your modified game controller (what’s happening in the calibration tool or something like that).

Best.

www.eareckon.com

[PFozz]

Hi all,
 
Using a TD-20, I think a CY12RC or a CY15 should work the way you want, if both the cymbal sockets are linked to the Ride/Edge inputs couple of your module.
What you need is a cymbal that works the same as such a cymbal : One piezo and 2 switches.
 
Here is a diagram :
 

 
 
Hope this helps,
Best.

www.eareckon.com

[Author]

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