why reverse tip and sleeve wires for the head piezo on roland’s modules… what are the consequences???? (i have not reversed the wires on the head piezos… with a td10 expanded module and it works… so how reverse them?)
i have the alesis trigger I/O and did my own triggers, the only thing i soldered the Ceramic Lead of the Piezo to the sleeve of the jack ? it still works perfectly and produces sounds ? how come ? and what should be the consequences ?
just curious, how come even though i made the wrong wirings it still worked perfectly ? does this wiring diagrams really matter ? what should be the advantage if i wired them correctly ? Thanks for the reply!
hello,
I have a question about the alesis wiring.
Is this diagram for alesis trigger i/o?
I have a alesis dm5 and as far as I know its inputs are all mono.
Can I use this diagram for alesis DM5?
Note the graphics are specific for Roland wiring requirements to accomodate Roland modules.
For the Alesis D4 and Trigger IO I always wired ceramics to the TIP or RING and brass always to the SLEEVE. I cannot say for the Alesis D5 as I never owned one.
No, the D4 is mono only. So you would normally only use mono jacks and mono cables, thus only tip and sleeve for the D4. However, you could easily have a stereo output from your trigger (head and rim, or bow and bell) then split the stereo cable to two monos before inputting to the D4. Less cabling on the trigger end.
The Trigger IO has stereo TRS inputs thus you can use a stereo cable and output from your triggers if you’re so inclined. The opposite of my splitter note above, I actually have a couple of choke switches wired in mono and run to a stereo-to-dual-mono splitter on my Trigger IO to not waste a bunch of stereo inputs on mono triggers.
The “rim” circuitry of a 3 zones pad acts as 2 switches. One of this “switch” is a simple one. The other one has a 10k resistor mounted in serial.
Both are linked to the Ring/Sleeve couple.
A dual piezo/switch pad will work as well.
To build a piezo/switch pad, your best bet is a KRC (Keith Raper’s Circuit) between the rim piezo and the jack socket (sleeve/ring).
This circuit is described in another thread.
I would like to build a 3-zone snare (yamaha style piezo/switch/switch for DTXpress IV) from a dual acoustic trigger (piezo/piezo) on a mesh head. As I have no idea about electronic circuits I would greatly appreciate some help on this.
I would like to get the following behaviour using a modified KRC:
– head piezo trigger -> velocity
– rim piezo switch -> “switch 1” (simple one) for cross sticks
– rim AND head piezo switch -> “switch 2” (10k resistance) for rim shots
To preserve the snare head only sound, it will be crucial that the head piezo won’t “switch” alone (i.e. without the rim piezo also switching) – I hope a sufficiently high resistance with the head piezo switch will generate the desired behaviour within the DTXpress?!
Can this be achieved by using two different resistors with the two switches (or even two potentiometers to adjust the behaviour)? Will changing the polarity of one of the piezos be of any help (just guessing)? Is there any other (not too complicated) circuit that provides the specified behaviour?
As I said I would be glad about any hints,
Thanks
Ben
P.S.: I hope I managed to illustrate the problem correctly (English is not my native language so please bare with me).
The polarity of the piezo will affect the latency response thus affecting the module ability to eliminate cross talk.
Also positional sensing accuracy on Roland modules might suffer (so equipped and enabled).
Positional sensing and cross talk elimination add latency to response time at the benefit of improved velocity accuracy and more predictive (as in constancy) in dependable responses.
As the crystal compressed and expands from the vibration it produces a voltage spikes with little amperage and then a reversed (inverted) bounce spikes at a lower voltage: The module will anticipate a negative spike first if the wiring is biased for negative. The AC wave continues until the piezo settles still.
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