2Zone/3Zone Choke Capable Cymbal
by PFozz
I received a nice amount of requests for more info about my 3Zone HH.
Before I write something about how to build one, I had to find an easier way to do it.
I’ve tried to work with polyester resins, PVC solvent, and that kind of smelly stuff. I must say that working with these products isn’t a real pleasure for my nose and head. Hopefully, the results aren’t that impressive… Some tries were a total failure, but I’ve learnt new things about resins.
Anyway, I recently rebuilt the roof of the shed in the garden and applied some bitumen tape to waterproof the sides.
Discovering the properties of this stuff, I needed to try it on the back of an acoustic cymbal.
This thing is so efficient!
It’s easy to apply, and it perfectly dampens acoustic cymbals.
It’s thick enough and it’s flexible and so it won’t break.
It nicely sticks to metal and won’t go away but it’s still removable with some efforts.
Unfortunately, it’s kind of ugly… and you need something to put over the bitumen tape in order to get a sweet cymbal.
You may put another cymbal, a painted acrylic cymbal, or whatever you want to see on the back of the instrument.
And since it’s cold those days, I didn’t want to explore the local shops for the nice cheap stuff that would do the job. That’s why I looked for something in the house, and found something to try.
It’s a place mat coming from Ikea. This thing is so adapted to the project that dispite the seasonal laziness, I drank a warm coffee, put a coat on my back, and quickly went out to get 10 of them.
Let’s write an ‘how to’ about my 2/3zone cymbals, now.
Material list :
– Self adhesive waterproofing bitumen tape (with an aluminium or vinyl foil)
– 1 Ikea PANNÅ place mat (diam. 37cm) made of EVA (various colors available)
– A good length of extra heavy duty double sided reinforced tape (cross woven construction)
– A short length of double-sided foam tape (I do prefere to do it myself using some double-sided reinforced tape and a piece of 1mm thick neoprene foam)
– 1 acoustic cymbal
– 1 to 3 or your favorite piezo transducer.
– 1 plastic box
– 1 to 2 jack sockets
– 0 to 2 home made Piezo/Piezo to Piezo/Swicth adapter (cf. Keith Raper’s circuit)
– Wire.
Instructions :
1 – Dampening the cymbal
1zone cymbal : Cover the back of the entire cymbal with bitumen tape and cut the unwanted part around the cymbal.
Keep the bell free of bitumen tape.
Cut a small disc from the bitumen tape in order to make a room for the main piezo.
2zone / 3zone cymbal : Same technique, but you have to let about 3cm from the edge of your cymbal free of bitumen tape.
2 – Preparing the covering
Cut a disc in the centre of the place mat, the size of your bell, and a smaller one for your main piezo. Cut the unwanted part around the cymbal (if your cymbal is smaller than the covering material)
3 – Adding the electronics
A picture is probably better than a long text.
2Zone
3Zone
The main piezo (set on the bow) and the bell piezo must be fixed using double-sided foam tape (some like to use half a disc instead of a full disc under the piezo).
The edge piezo can be set using the thinner double-sided reinforced tape.
Hide the wires into the bitumen tape (cut a line).
If you want to build a simple 1zone cymbal, just keep the main piezo and forget the other piezos and the PP to PS adapter circuit.
4 – Covering the all thing
Put some double-sided reinforced tape on your bitumen tape, but don’t remove the protection yet!
Put a lot of it around the main piezo room (it will help the plastic box to stay in place later).
Make all the electronic stuff pass thru the small hole and check for bumps on the surface to cover.
Keep the covering stuff correctly placed on your cymbal and remove the tape protection little by little.
5 – Finishing
Prepare the needed holes in the plastic box for the main piezo and jack sockets. Check them twice 😉
Use a piece of double-sided reinforced tape to fix the plastic box on the covering material (when I say extra heavy duty double-sided reinforced tape in the material list, I mean really heavy duty ^^).
Secure the jack sockets and put the box cover.
Put a small disc of bitumen tape over the visible piezo transducers (it will help to secure the solder points, and be a cool thing to “choke”).
2Zone
3Zone
6 – Setting up your module
1Zone :
Plug your trigger then set the sensitivity and main parameters.
2Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch capable input.
Set the trigger type as you would do for a Piezo/Switch cymbal (CY-8 / PCY-65S, for exemple)
Set the sensitivity and main parameters.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
3Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch input + a mono input (or a dual one)
Plug the bow/edge output of the cymbal to the dual input.
Plug the bell output to the mon input of your module.
Set parameters for the bow/edge part as you would do with a 2Zone cymbal.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
Set parameters for the bell part as you would do with a 1Zone cymbal, then set its threshold so your harder tip hits on the bow don’t trigger the bell.
7 – Choke switch
The edge piezo combined to the PP to PS adapter will act as a choke switch.
Cherry on the cake 🙂
8 – Some ideas to experiment with…
– If you own a Roland 3Zone ride input, you may add a additional PP to PS adapter between the bell piezo and the Bell jack socket (sleeve/ring). Don’t forget to link the main piezo to the tip/sleeve couple of this same socket.
You’ll get the needed Bow/Edge and Bow/Bell output this way.
– If you want to use a Yamaha 3Zone input, you may use 1 single jack socket. Firstly mount the 2Zone electronic part then add a PP to PS adapter AND a 10k resistor between the bell piezo (+) and the ring of the single jack socket.
– You may build such a cymbal from a practice cymbal and use another place mat as your playing surface.
There is a lot of things to do… be creative and please share your ideas here 🙂
9 – Want to know why it works ?
Please put your request in this thread 😉
Enjoy.
www.eareckon.com
2Zone/3Zone Choke Capable Cymbal
by PFozz
I received a nice amount of requests for more info about my 3Zone HH.
Before I write something about how to build one, I had to find an easier way to do it.
I’ve tried to work with polyester resins, PVC solvent, and that kind of smelly stuff. I must say that working with these products isn’t a real pleasure for my nose and head. Hopefully, the results aren’t that impressive… Some tries were a total failure, but I’ve learnt new things about resins.
Anyway, I recently rebuilt the roof of the shed in the garden and applied some bitumen tape to waterproof the sides.
Discovering the properties of this stuff, I needed to try it on the back of an acoustic cymbal.
This thing is so efficient!
It’s easy to apply, and it perfectly dampens acoustic cymbals.
It’s thick enough and it’s flexible and so it won’t break.
It nicely sticks to metal and won’t go away but it’s still removable with some efforts.
Unfortunately, it’s kind of ugly… and you need something to put over the bitumen tape in order to get a sweet cymbal.
You may put another cymbal, a painted acrylic cymbal, or whatever you want to see on the back of the instrument.
And since it’s cold those days, I didn’t want to explore the local shops for the nice cheap stuff that would do the job. That’s why I looked for something in the house, and found something to try.
It’s a place mat coming from Ikea. This thing is so adapted to the project that dispite the seasonal laziness, I drank a warm coffee, put a coat on my back, and quickly went out to get 10 of them.
Let’s write an ‘how to’ about my 2/3zone cymbals, now.
Material list :
– Self adhesive waterproofing bitumen tape (with an aluminium or vinyl foil)
– 1 Ikea PANNÅ place mat (diam. 37cm) made of EVA (various colors available)
– A good length of extra heavy duty double sided reinforced tape (cross woven construction)
– A short length of double-sided foam tape (I do prefere to do it myself using some double-sided reinforced tape and a piece of 1mm thick neoprene foam)
– 1 acoustic cymbal
– 1 to 3 or your favorite piezo transducer.
– 1 plastic box
– 1 to 2 jack sockets
– 0 to 2 home made Piezo/Piezo to Piezo/Swicth adapter (cf. Keith Raper’s circuit)
– Wire.
Instructions :
1 – Dampening the cymbal
1zone cymbal : Cover the back of the entire cymbal with bitumen tape and cut the unwanted part around the cymbal.
Keep the bell free of bitumen tape.
Cut a small disc from the bitumen tape in order to make a room for the main piezo.
2zone / 3zone cymbal : Same technique, but you have to let about 3cm from the edge of your cymbal free of bitumen tape.
2 – Preparing the covering
Cut a disc in the centre of the place mat, the size of your bell, and a smaller one for your main piezo. Cut the unwanted part around the cymbal (if your cymbal is smaller than the covering material)
3 – Adding the electronics
A picture is probably better than a long text.
2Zone
3Zone
The main piezo (set on the bow) and the bell piezo must be fixed using double-sided foam tape (some like to use half a disc instead of a full disc under the piezo).
The edge piezo can be set using the thinner double-sided reinforced tape.
Hide the wires into the bitumen tape (cut a line).
If you want to build a simple 1zone cymbal, just keep the main piezo and forget the other piezos and the PP to PS adapter circuit.
4 – Covering the all thing
Put some double-sided reinforced tape on your bitumen tape, but don’t remove the protection yet!
Put a lot of it around the main piezo room (it will help the plastic box to stay in place later).
Make all the electronic stuff pass thru the small hole and check for bumps on the surface to cover.
Keep the covering stuff correctly placed on your cymbal and remove the tape protection little by little.
5 – Finishing
Prepare the needed holes in the plastic box for the main piezo and jack sockets. Check them twice 😉
Use a piece of double-sided reinforced tape to fix the plastic box on the covering material (when I say extra heavy duty double-sided reinforced tape in the material list, I mean really heavy duty ^^).
Secure the jack sockets and put the box cover.
Put a small disc of bitumen tape over the visible piezo transducers (it will help to secure the solder points, and be a cool thing to “choke”).
2Zone
3Zone
6 – Setting up your module
1Zone :
Plug your trigger then set the sensitivity and main parameters.
2Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch capable input.
Set the trigger type as you would do for a Piezo/Switch cymbal (CY-8 / PCY-65S, for exemple)
Set the sensitivity and main parameters.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
3Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch input + a mono input (or a dual one)
Plug the bow/edge output of the cymbal to the dual input.
Plug the bell output to the mon input of your module.
Set parameters for the bow/edge part as you would do with a 2Zone cymbal.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
Set parameters for the bell part as you would do with a 1Zone cymbal, then set its threshold so your harder tip hits on the bow don’t trigger the bell.
7 – Choke switch
The edge piezo combined to the PP to PS adapter will act as a choke switch.
Cherry on the cake 🙂
8 – Some ideas to experiment with…
– If you own a Roland 3Zone ride input, you may add a additional PP to PS adapter between the bell piezo and the Bell jack socket (sleeve/ring). Don’t forget to link the main piezo to the tip/sleeve couple of this same socket.
You’ll get the needed Bow/Edge and Bow/Bell output this way.
– If you want to use a Yamaha 3Zone input, you may use 1 single jack socket. Firstly mount the 2Zone electronic part then add a PP to PS adapter AND a 10k resistor between the bell piezo (+) and the ring of the single jack socket.
– You may build such a cymbal from a practice cymbal and use another place mat as your playing surface.
There is a lot of things to do… be creative and please share your ideas here 🙂
9 – Want to know why it works ?
Please put your request in this thread 😉
Enjoy.
www.eareckon.com
Hello Blankman,
First off, sorry for my lame screenname, it’s the first thing that came to mind when my usual was not available…anyway, you can call me Josh. I have actually successfully completed my dual-zone drums, although I’ve only tested them as single-zone with my Ion Drum Rocker controller on rock band. I do not yet have my Trigger IO. But I do have a Y-cable and tested both the head and the rim functionality on each drum and I’m extremely pleased with the head responsiveness and somewhat pleased with the rim responsiveness, but I’m hoping it will be better once I have a real module. Speaking of the Trigger IO, if you are going to be using it, there is absolutely no need for the KRC, thankfully. I guess each TRS jack has the tip and the ring wired completely separately of each other so they don’t communicate like a Roland unit does. That being said, we also don’t get to have a dual-zone cymbal with choke go into one jack, it would have to be either dual-zone and no choke or single-zone and choke if you want to only take up one input jack. I have converted one acoustic cymbal to a dual-zone ride, bow and bell, and I definitely like the results. I used PFozz’s design for it (thanks PFozz).
How’s yours coming along?
i’m trying to figure out IF, when the KR circuit is used in this setup:
1 x BELL piezo
1 x BOW piezo
1 x EDGE piezo
is it somehow possible to use only ONE stereo input on ones drum module (i use a MegaDrum, which support Yamaha’s 3 zone input, which only uses 1 stereo input, but uses 2 SWITCHES and 1 PIEZO and not just 3 PIEZO’s).
the KR circuit really “just” turns a piezo into a switch of sorts, correct?
so i’m thinking – if i used 2 x KRC’s
one between BOW/EDGE -> EDGE turns to a switch and get’s its VELOCITY from the BOW piezo
and one between BOW/BELL -> BELL turns to a switch and get’s its VELOCITY from the BOW piezo
this seems possible – but i’m not really sure how…
and i keep thinking i heard something about using a 10K resistor in the path somewhere…hmm..
PFozz – any help?
Hi Krusen,
It’s theorically possible to build such a 3-ways trigger using only one input, if your module ‘knows’ what to do with such a thing 🙂
The Megadrum is an awesome project (many thanks to Dmitri, btw) and even if mine isn’t up-to-date (shame on me), the last version of the firmware seems to provide what you need to make these triggers work.
Here’s how I would try to build them :
HEAD/BOW (Zone 1) PIEZO -> Tip/Sleeve
Zone 2 PIEZO -> KRC -> Ring/Sleeve
Zone 3 PIEZO -> KRC -> 10k resistor -> Ring/Sleeve (the resistor should be connected in serial between one output of the KRC and the ring part of your jack plug)
For such a design, it’s obviously very important to avoid crosstalk between zone 2 and zone 3 (adding a resistor or a pot just after the Zone 2 piezo may help).
Best regards.
www.eareckon.com
Hi, I am not able to buy bitumen tape at local store.
Do anyone know any online store, that can order bitumen tape with international service?
Many thanks.
Hello,
1) I wish your an Happy News Year to you folks,
“For the little story, i’m very newbe concerning drum and E-drum in general, but after some nights of research and reading forums, i kick my as.. and decide to build one.
First, the A to E conversion by cutting toms in half, bough mesh and addings piezzo was successfully and sound working good with my PM-16 module or with the TD12 module from my father’s in law. Now it’s time for cymbal (Hi-hat will be for later but i’ve got a little solution for this with Edrum Monitor and pot pedal).”
2) Concerning the 3Z crash, i’ve seen lot of post talk about the TD module or DTX module.
Is my PM-16 module can do the same (i think it doesn’t, too old)?
Otherelese, is there another way to use a gamepad switch with Edrum Monitor acting like the choke, and piezzo acting like as usual but certainly with 2xPM-16 trigger input ?
Thanks for you help!
ps: Sorry for my english. For the frenchy, if you want, you can pm me in french.
Air-v
Hi,
Has anyone try this with yamaha setup ? one piezo, and two piezo with KRC ?
I am looking for more opinion, before strating making it,
I dont want to waste rare materials I got.
Thanks
Hi PFozz
A big thanks for this info. I had some bitumen tape (no idea why was just in garage) It works brilliant as you say. I just wanted a few more ecymbals. I wasn’t bothered about
dual zone just some more sounds. Anyway used your design on a cheap and nasty pair of hi-hat cymbals from local drum shop for a tenner. I have put a bit of thin rubber on the striking serface as well to make them more silent.
Brilliant work thanks. I have the bug for making my own pads and triggers again.
Cheers
Mark
SD3 with older sdx,s plus Rooms of Hansa and Death & Darkness. Cubase and wavelab current versions. Roland TD50x using all trigger inputs for triggering SD3 only. Windows 11 computer. Various keyboards and outboard gear as well as VST instruments. Acoustic drums: Yamaha 9000 natural wood and Pearl masters. Various snare drums. RME BabyFace Pro FS and Adam A7X monitors
I have a few questions I hope someone can answer.
How big is the “sweet spot” on the cymbals made by this method? I have read complaints regarding the small sweet spot on Alesis Surge Cymbals, which I imagine have somewhat similar construction.
Could the sweet spot be expanded by leaving a wider space of metal with no bitumen tape around the bow piezo?
Would it be possible to use two or more piezo transducers in parallell for the bow? For example, make a whole ring of piezos in the bow wired in parallell in order to achieve even response all the way around. I wonder if there would be any phase cancellation issues with such a system.
I am reading up and comparing DIY alternatives right now and hope to start building in a couple months. Lot’s of great inspiring info here. Thanks!
Darryl
Hello folks,
I’m a newbie and trying to make my first edrum!!
I would like to know why the bitumen tape needs to stick on the back of cymbal?
And I don’t know why how the place mat works? Just for good looking?
Is any way to expand the hitting zone ? parallel the piezo?
BTW, sorry for my poor English
Thank you guys!!
BBC
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