2Zone/3Zone Choke Capable Cymbal
by PFozz
I received a nice amount of requests for more info about my 3Zone HH.
Before I write something about how to build one, I had to find an easier way to do it.
I’ve tried to work with polyester resins, PVC solvent, and that kind of smelly stuff. I must say that working with these products isn’t a real pleasure for my nose and head. Hopefully, the results aren’t that impressive… Some tries were a total failure, but I’ve learnt new things about resins.
Anyway, I recently rebuilt the roof of the shed in the garden and applied some bitumen tape to waterproof the sides.
Discovering the properties of this stuff, I needed to try it on the back of an acoustic cymbal.
This thing is so efficient!
It’s easy to apply, and it perfectly dampens acoustic cymbals.
It’s thick enough and it’s flexible and so it won’t break.
It nicely sticks to metal and won’t go away but it’s still removable with some efforts.
Unfortunately, it’s kind of ugly… and you need something to put over the bitumen tape in order to get a sweet cymbal.
You may put another cymbal, a painted acrylic cymbal, or whatever you want to see on the back of the instrument.
And since it’s cold those days, I didn’t want to explore the local shops for the nice cheap stuff that would do the job. That’s why I looked for something in the house, and found something to try.
It’s a place mat coming from Ikea. This thing is so adapted to the project that dispite the seasonal laziness, I drank a warm coffee, put a coat on my back, and quickly went out to get 10 of them.
Let’s write an ‘how to’ about my 2/3zone cymbals, now.
Material list :
– Self adhesive waterproofing bitumen tape (with an aluminium or vinyl foil)
– 1 Ikea PANNÅ place mat (diam. 37cm) made of EVA (various colors available)
– A good length of extra heavy duty double sided reinforced tape (cross woven construction)
– A short length of double-sided foam tape (I do prefere to do it myself using some double-sided reinforced tape and a piece of 1mm thick neoprene foam)
– 1 acoustic cymbal
– 1 to 3 or your favorite piezo transducer.
– 1 plastic box
– 1 to 2 jack sockets
– 0 to 2 home made Piezo/Piezo to Piezo/Swicth adapter (cf. Keith Raper’s circuit)
– Wire.
Instructions :
1 – Dampening the cymbal
1zone cymbal : Cover the back of the entire cymbal with bitumen tape and cut the unwanted part around the cymbal.
Keep the bell free of bitumen tape.
Cut a small disc from the bitumen tape in order to make a room for the main piezo.
2zone / 3zone cymbal : Same technique, but you have to let about 3cm from the edge of your cymbal free of bitumen tape.
2 – Preparing the covering
Cut a disc in the centre of the place mat, the size of your bell, and a smaller one for your main piezo. Cut the unwanted part around the cymbal (if your cymbal is smaller than the covering material)
3 – Adding the electronics
A picture is probably better than a long text.
2Zone
3Zone
The main piezo (set on the bow) and the bell piezo must be fixed using double-sided foam tape (some like to use half a disc instead of a full disc under the piezo).
The edge piezo can be set using the thinner double-sided reinforced tape.
Hide the wires into the bitumen tape (cut a line).
If you want to build a simple 1zone cymbal, just keep the main piezo and forget the other piezos and the PP to PS adapter circuit.
4 – Covering the all thing
Put some double-sided reinforced tape on your bitumen tape, but don’t remove the protection yet!
Put a lot of it around the main piezo room (it will help the plastic box to stay in place later).
Make all the electronic stuff pass thru the small hole and check for bumps on the surface to cover.
Keep the covering stuff correctly placed on your cymbal and remove the tape protection little by little.
5 – Finishing
Prepare the needed holes in the plastic box for the main piezo and jack sockets. Check them twice 😉
Use a piece of double-sided reinforced tape to fix the plastic box on the covering material (when I say extra heavy duty double-sided reinforced tape in the material list, I mean really heavy duty ^^).
Secure the jack sockets and put the box cover.
Put a small disc of bitumen tape over the visible piezo transducers (it will help to secure the solder points, and be a cool thing to “choke”).
2Zone
3Zone
6 – Setting up your module
1Zone :
Plug your trigger then set the sensitivity and main parameters.
2Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch capable input.
Set the trigger type as you would do for a Piezo/Switch cymbal (CY-8 / PCY-65S, for exemple)
Set the sensitivity and main parameters.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
3Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch input + a mono input (or a dual one)
Plug the bow/edge output of the cymbal to the dual input.
Plug the bell output to the mon input of your module.
Set parameters for the bow/edge part as you would do with a 2Zone cymbal.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
Set parameters for the bell part as you would do with a 1Zone cymbal, then set its threshold so your harder tip hits on the bow don’t trigger the bell.
7 – Choke switch
The edge piezo combined to the PP to PS adapter will act as a choke switch.
Cherry on the cake 🙂
8 – Some ideas to experiment with…
– If you own a Roland 3Zone ride input, you may add a additional PP to PS adapter between the bell piezo and the Bell jack socket (sleeve/ring). Don’t forget to link the main piezo to the tip/sleeve couple of this same socket.
You’ll get the needed Bow/Edge and Bow/Bell output this way.
– If you want to use a Yamaha 3Zone input, you may use 1 single jack socket. Firstly mount the 2Zone electronic part then add a PP to PS adapter AND a 10k resistor between the bell piezo (+) and the ring of the single jack socket.
– You may build such a cymbal from a practice cymbal and use another place mat as your playing surface.
There is a lot of things to do… be creative and please share your ideas here 🙂
9 – Want to know why it works ?
Please put your request in this thread 😉
Enjoy.
www.eareckon.com
2Zone/3Zone Choke Capable Cymbal
by PFozz
I received a nice amount of requests for more info about my 3Zone HH.
Before I write something about how to build one, I had to find an easier way to do it.
I’ve tried to work with polyester resins, PVC solvent, and that kind of smelly stuff. I must say that working with these products isn’t a real pleasure for my nose and head. Hopefully, the results aren’t that impressive… Some tries were a total failure, but I’ve learnt new things about resins.
Anyway, I recently rebuilt the roof of the shed in the garden and applied some bitumen tape to waterproof the sides.
Discovering the properties of this stuff, I needed to try it on the back of an acoustic cymbal.
This thing is so efficient!
It’s easy to apply, and it perfectly dampens acoustic cymbals.
It’s thick enough and it’s flexible and so it won’t break.
It nicely sticks to metal and won’t go away but it’s still removable with some efforts.
Unfortunately, it’s kind of ugly… and you need something to put over the bitumen tape in order to get a sweet cymbal.
You may put another cymbal, a painted acrylic cymbal, or whatever you want to see on the back of the instrument.
And since it’s cold those days, I didn’t want to explore the local shops for the nice cheap stuff that would do the job. That’s why I looked for something in the house, and found something to try.
It’s a place mat coming from Ikea. This thing is so adapted to the project that dispite the seasonal laziness, I drank a warm coffee, put a coat on my back, and quickly went out to get 10 of them.
Let’s write an ‘how to’ about my 2/3zone cymbals, now.
Material list :
– Self adhesive waterproofing bitumen tape (with an aluminium or vinyl foil)
– 1 Ikea PANNÅ place mat (diam. 37cm) made of EVA (various colors available)
– A good length of extra heavy duty double sided reinforced tape (cross woven construction)
– A short length of double-sided foam tape (I do prefere to do it myself using some double-sided reinforced tape and a piece of 1mm thick neoprene foam)
– 1 acoustic cymbal
– 1 to 3 or your favorite piezo transducer.
– 1 plastic box
– 1 to 2 jack sockets
– 0 to 2 home made Piezo/Piezo to Piezo/Swicth adapter (cf. Keith Raper’s circuit)
– Wire.
Instructions :
1 – Dampening the cymbal
1zone cymbal : Cover the back of the entire cymbal with bitumen tape and cut the unwanted part around the cymbal.
Keep the bell free of bitumen tape.
Cut a small disc from the bitumen tape in order to make a room for the main piezo.
2zone / 3zone cymbal : Same technique, but you have to let about 3cm from the edge of your cymbal free of bitumen tape.
2 – Preparing the covering
Cut a disc in the centre of the place mat, the size of your bell, and a smaller one for your main piezo. Cut the unwanted part around the cymbal (if your cymbal is smaller than the covering material)
3 – Adding the electronics
A picture is probably better than a long text.
2Zone
3Zone
The main piezo (set on the bow) and the bell piezo must be fixed using double-sided foam tape (some like to use half a disc instead of a full disc under the piezo).
The edge piezo can be set using the thinner double-sided reinforced tape.
Hide the wires into the bitumen tape (cut a line).
If you want to build a simple 1zone cymbal, just keep the main piezo and forget the other piezos and the PP to PS adapter circuit.
4 – Covering the all thing
Put some double-sided reinforced tape on your bitumen tape, but don’t remove the protection yet!
Put a lot of it around the main piezo room (it will help the plastic box to stay in place later).
Make all the electronic stuff pass thru the small hole and check for bumps on the surface to cover.
Keep the covering stuff correctly placed on your cymbal and remove the tape protection little by little.
5 – Finishing
Prepare the needed holes in the plastic box for the main piezo and jack sockets. Check them twice 😉
Use a piece of double-sided reinforced tape to fix the plastic box on the covering material (when I say extra heavy duty double-sided reinforced tape in the material list, I mean really heavy duty ^^).
Secure the jack sockets and put the box cover.
Put a small disc of bitumen tape over the visible piezo transducers (it will help to secure the solder points, and be a cool thing to “choke”).
2Zone
3Zone
6 – Setting up your module
1Zone :
Plug your trigger then set the sensitivity and main parameters.
2Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch capable input.
Set the trigger type as you would do for a Piezo/Switch cymbal (CY-8 / PCY-65S, for exemple)
Set the sensitivity and main parameters.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
3Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch input + a mono input (or a dual one)
Plug the bow/edge output of the cymbal to the dual input.
Plug the bell output to the mon input of your module.
Set parameters for the bow/edge part as you would do with a 2Zone cymbal.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
Set parameters for the bell part as you would do with a 1Zone cymbal, then set its threshold so your harder tip hits on the bow don’t trigger the bell.
7 – Choke switch
The edge piezo combined to the PP to PS adapter will act as a choke switch.
Cherry on the cake 🙂
8 – Some ideas to experiment with…
– If you own a Roland 3Zone ride input, you may add a additional PP to PS adapter between the bell piezo and the Bell jack socket (sleeve/ring). Don’t forget to link the main piezo to the tip/sleeve couple of this same socket.
You’ll get the needed Bow/Edge and Bow/Bell output this way.
– If you want to use a Yamaha 3Zone input, you may use 1 single jack socket. Firstly mount the 2Zone electronic part then add a PP to PS adapter AND a 10k resistor between the bell piezo (+) and the ring of the single jack socket.
– You may build such a cymbal from a practice cymbal and use another place mat as your playing surface.
There is a lot of things to do… be creative and please share your ideas here 🙂
9 – Want to know why it works ?
Please put your request in this thread 😉
Enjoy.
www.eareckon.com
Do you guys use the same technique for the hi-hat?
And if so…
Do you put bitumen tape on both the top and bottom cymbales?
How do you manage to position the piezo’s leads so they dont get constantly “squeezed” between the 2 cymbales?
I put sound deadening material on both hat cymbals, but not the bells. Real cymbals are concave and don’t touch except at the very edge so you have no worries about things getting pinched or squished. Normally you install the jack in the bottom bell, or drill a hole to fish the wires. So you’re all set in that regard. I’ve actually squeezed my 25k slider into the inside of the hat as well, plenty of room in there for all sorts of goodies. 😉
Christopher Graham
Hey Gastric,
Can I ask you what material you use as “sound deadening”? And do you also put some on the edge of both hi-hats?
I dont know if you have 1, 2 or 3 piezos on the top cymbal, but if you have more than 1, doesn’t the “sound deadening material” affect the piezo’s response by cancelling the vibration?
I used JMan’s method of clear PVC sheeting adhered with Killer Red tape. It’s an expensive solution, but looks (nearly invisible) and works great. Stuck it to the bottom of all of my cymbals, including right up to the very edge, but not the bells. Bell piezo gets stuck to the bell itself (ideally you’ll want a 27mm piezo purely for size as they fit inside the bell easier than a 40mm) and the bow piezo just gets stuck about 1/2 way between the edge and bell. I currently just have one piezo on the bow installed on the part of the cymbal furthest from the playing area as this seems to eliminate hotspots. I did the same positioning on my ride. My crashes have the piezo in the project box which is right under the playing area. I don’t find hotspoting a concern with crash/splash/china.
Christopher Graham
Hello! I finally got around to trying this out, and it works great with my crash cymbals. I noticed a few oddities though–one of my crashes triggers great when the cable is cocked parallel to the cymbal rather than “hanging” down. Also, I must not have understood the concept of the 2 zone cymbal as it’s not triggering the way I intended. Can someone help me with this setup (i believe in the KISS method!)? I wired the cymbal as I would a drum, with head and rim piezo’s (head=bell, rim=bow/edge). This doesn’t seem to work. This is on my ride, where I would like the bell to be independent of the bow/edge. Also, I seem to be getting an odd triggering with this same cymbal as it sounds like a single hit is retriggering or echoing. I tried to adjust the retrigger, threshold, scan time, etc. with no luck (Roland TD-8). Is it all due to the wrong wiring? If anyone can help, I sure would appreciate it!!
Thanks in advance!
Hi all,
two little questions concerning the design:
1. does the bitumen tape do all the muffling or do those place mats also help muffling?
2. how loud or quiet is this design compared to muffling the cymbal with your hand and then hitting it?
thanks for any answers
Hi all.
SlotH,
The bitumen tape do all the muffling. The place mat is just a way to hide the bitumen tape (and if you don’t like the ‘green effect’ on the back of your cymbal, you can use an antique gold spray paint on this place mat).
Your cymbal will work fine without the optional place mat.
The design is very quiet (quieter than muffling a cymbal with your hand or even a pillow).
BGibson72,
Let’s check that on your dual ride cymbal 🙂
.Put some bitumen tape everywhere under cymbal but not under the bell.
.Wiring :
Bow piezo -> Jack sleeve+tip
(The bow piezo must not be placed next to the edge, but next to the bell – Take a look at one of the pictures joined to the first post of this thread)
Bell piezo -> Keith Raper’s PP to PS circuit -> Jack sleeve+ring
Hope this helps,
Best.
www.eareckon.com
thanks PFozz,
can you read minds? i asked the question 1 because all tho i like your idea with the place mat.
Having something thinner and yellow-gold coloured insted would make it look alot “real-er” (Is that a word?)
Best
btw: whats the german word for bitumen tape. I’m swiss.
I don’t speak a word of German, but “Kalt selbstklebende Bitumen-Dichtungsbahn” may be the words
Best regards.
www.eareckon.com
Maybe this http://deutsch.treemme.net/PDF/scheda_2500_fra_ted.pdf ?
although it doesn’t mention being against the cold.
Maybe it’s too late for an answer, but just in case it could help anyone….
The bitumen tape I bought is made by “Bostik GmbH” (a German company)
It is called :
Bitumen-Band alufarben (abdichtungsband)
The description :
Verklebung und Abdichtung von Mettalen, Kunststoffen, Holz und Beton.
Geeignet für die Abdichtung und Verklebung von Regenrinnen, Dachabdeckungen, Fallrohren, Dachdurchbrüchen etc…
http://www.bostik.de/
But dont bother trying to buy the product directly from them! you’ll find it at your local hardware store. I bought mine at Hornbach
It’s never to late for an answer. Thank you!
BTW: I asked my father about Bitumentape some time ago and he imediatly replied that it was called Bitumen Band in german. Pretty straight forward translation. I shouldn’t search to far, it always ends badly.
Not sure if this was posted but I found a nifty little compatibility chart for the Alesis SURGE Cymbals that would more than likely equate to the DIY cymbals rather nicely.
To download, click here: http://www.alesis.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/20/cff9f190b110bae28bc3e7ffd61317f6/file/surge_cymbal_compatibility_guide.pdf
Requires Adobe or FoxIt reader
I know this thread is from a while ago, but I have a couple questions, hopefully you’re still active…
1. Do I need Keith Raper’s circuit if I just want a dual-zone cymbal with choke capability?
2. If so, is there anywhere online that show’s physical pictures of somebody building this circuit step-by-step? I am by no means a knowledgeable electronics “builder” so the diagrams and the jargon are like foreign languages to an ignorant guy like myself.
By the way I intend to use this with the Alesis Trigger IO.
Thank you so much for your time in answering this question.
Jonesy
– http://www.toontrack.com/forum/showProfile.aspx?memid=89600, if you haven’t found it already looks like all the technical info are on the links on this page http://www.toontrack.com/edrum_for_free.asp
I’m not too hot on electronics yet either but have just started converting my kit using these guides. let me know how your getting on.
custom Tama with sabian and zildjian - in the process of making a reversible electronic kit.
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