[DESIGN] 2Z/3Z Choke Capable Cymbal (by PFozz)

E-drum Workshop
Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 54 total)
  • kimouette
    Participant

    Do you guys use the same technique for the hi-hat?
    And if so…
    Do you put bitumen tape on both the top and bottom cymbales?
    How do you manage to position the piezo’s leads so they dont get constantly “squeezed” between the 2 cymbales?

    gastric
    Participant

    I put sound deadening material on both hat cymbals, but not the bells. Real cymbals are concave and don’t touch except at the very edge so you have no worries about things getting pinched or squished. Normally you install the jack in the bottom bell, or drill a hole to fish the wires. So you’re all set in that regard. I’ve actually squeezed my 25k slider into the inside of the hat as well, plenty of room in there for all sorts of goodies. 😉

    Christopher Graham

    kimouette
    Participant

    Hey Gastric,

    Can I ask you what material you use as “sound deadening”? And do you also put some on the edge of both hi-hats?

    I dont know if you have 1, 2 or 3 piezos on the top cymbal, but if you have more than 1, doesn’t the “sound deadening material” affect the piezo’s response by cancelling the vibration?

    gastric
    Participant

    I used JMan’s method of clear PVC sheeting adhered with Killer Red tape. It’s an expensive solution, but looks (nearly invisible) and works great. Stuck it to the bottom of all of my cymbals, including right up to the very edge, but not the bells. Bell piezo gets stuck to the bell itself (ideally you’ll want a 27mm piezo purely for size as they fit inside the bell easier than a 40mm) and the bow piezo just gets stuck about 1/2 way between the edge and bell. I currently just have one piezo on the bow installed on the part of the cymbal furthest from the playing area as this seems to eliminate hotspots. I did the same positioning on my ride. My crashes have the piezo in the project box which is right under the playing area. I don’t find hotspoting a concern with crash/splash/china.

    Christopher Graham

    bgibson72
    Participant

    Hello! I finally got around to trying this out, and it works great with my crash cymbals. I noticed a few oddities though–one of my crashes triggers great when the cable is cocked parallel to the cymbal rather than “hanging” down. Also, I must not have understood the concept of the 2 zone cymbal as it’s not triggering the way I intended. Can someone help me with this setup (i believe in the KISS method!)? I wired the cymbal as I would a drum, with head and rim piezo’s (head=bell, rim=bow/edge). This doesn’t seem to work. This is on my ride, where I would like the bell to be independent of the bow/edge. Also, I seem to be getting an odd triggering with this same cymbal as it sounds like a single hit is retriggering or echoing. I tried to adjust the retrigger, threshold, scan time, etc. with no luck (Roland TD-8). Is it all due to the wrong wiring? If anyone can help, I sure would appreciate it!!

    Thanks in advance!

    SlotH
    Participant

    Hi all,

    two little questions concerning the design:
    1. does the bitumen tape do all the muffling or do those place mats also help muffling?
    2. how loud or quiet is this design compared to muffling the cymbal with your hand and then hitting it?

    thanks for any answers

    PFozz
    Participant

    Hi all.
     
    SlotH,
    The bitumen tape do all the muffling. The place mat is just a way to hide the bitumen tape (and if you don’t like the ‘green effect’ on the back of your cymbal, you can use an antique gold spray paint on this place mat).
    Your cymbal will work fine without the optional place mat.
    The design is very quiet (quieter than muffling a cymbal with your hand or even a pillow).
     
    BGibson72,
    Let’s check that on your dual ride cymbal 🙂
     
    .Put some bitumen tape everywhere under cymbal but not under the bell.
     
    .Wiring :
    Bow piezo -> Jack sleeve+tip
    (The bow piezo must not be placed next to the edge, but next to the bell – Take a look at one of the pictures joined to the first post of this thread)
    Bell piezo -> Keith Raper’s PP to PS circuit -> Jack sleeve+ring
     
    Hope this helps,
    Best.
     

    www.eareckon.com

    SlotH
    Participant

    thanks PFozz,

    can you read minds? i asked the question 1 because all tho i like your idea with the place mat.
    Having something thinner and yellow-gold coloured insted would make it look alot “real-er” (Is that a word?)

    Best

    btw: whats the german word for bitumen tape. I’m swiss.

    PFozz
    Participant

    I don’t speak a word of German, but “Kalt selbstklebende Bitumen-Dichtungsbahn” may be the words
     
    Best regards.

    www.eareckon.com

    SlotH
    Participant

    Maybe this http://deutsch.treemme.net/PDF/scheda_2500_fra_ted.pdf ?
    although it doesn’t mention being against the cold.

    kimouette
    Participant

    Maybe it’s too late for an answer, but just in case it could help anyone….

    The bitumen tape I bought is made by “Bostik GmbH” (a German company)

    It is called :

    Bitumen-Band alufarben (abdichtungsband)

    The description :

    Verklebung und Abdichtung von Mettalen, Kunststoffen, Holz und Beton.
    Geeignet für die Abdichtung und Verklebung von Regenrinnen, Dachabdeckungen, Fallrohren, Dachdurchbrüchen etc…

    http://www.bostik.de/
    But dont bother trying to buy the product directly from them! you’ll find it at your local hardware store. I bought mine at Hornbach

    SlotH
    Participant

    It’s never to late for an answer. Thank you!

    BTW: I asked my father about Bitumentape some time ago and he imediatly replied that it was called Bitumen Band in german. Pretty straight forward translation. I shouldn’t search to far, it always ends badly.

    voodoovader
    Participant

    Not sure if this was posted but I found a nifty little compatibility chart for the Alesis SURGE Cymbals that would more than likely equate to the DIY cymbals rather nicely. 

    To download, click here: http://www.alesis.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/20/cff9f190b110bae28bc3e7ffd61317f6/file/surge_cymbal_compatibility_guide.pdf

    Requires Adobe or FoxIt reader

    JJDrummer
    Participant

    I know this thread is from a while ago, but I have a couple questions, hopefully you’re still active…
    1. Do I need Keith Raper’s circuit if I just want a dual-zone cymbal with choke capability?

    2. If so, is there anywhere online that show’s physical pictures of somebody building this circuit step-by-step? I am by no means a knowledgeable electronics “builder” so the diagrams and the jargon are like foreign languages to an ignorant guy like myself.

    By the way I intend to use this with the Alesis Trigger IO.

    Thank you so much for your time in answering this question.

    Jonesy

    blankman
    Participant

    http://www.toontrack.com/forum/showProfile.aspx?memid=89600, if you haven’t found it already looks like all the technical info are on the links on this page http://www.toontrack.com/edrum_for_free.asp

    I’m not too hot on electronics yet either but have just started converting my kit using these guides. let me know how your getting on.

    custom Tama with sabian and zildjian - in the process of making a reversible electronic kit.

Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 54 total)

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