2Zone/3Zone Choke Capable Cymbal
by PFozz
I received a nice amount of requests for more info about my 3Zone HH.
Before I write something about how to build one, I had to find an easier way to do it.
I’ve tried to work with polyester resins, PVC solvent, and that kind of smelly stuff. I must say that working with these products isn’t a real pleasure for my nose and head. Hopefully, the results aren’t that impressive… Some tries were a total failure, but I’ve learnt new things about resins.
Anyway, I recently rebuilt the roof of the shed in the garden and applied some bitumen tape to waterproof the sides.
Discovering the properties of this stuff, I needed to try it on the back of an acoustic cymbal.
This thing is so efficient!
It’s easy to apply, and it perfectly dampens acoustic cymbals.
It’s thick enough and it’s flexible and so it won’t break.
It nicely sticks to metal and won’t go away but it’s still removable with some efforts.
Unfortunately, it’s kind of ugly… and you need something to put over the bitumen tape in order to get a sweet cymbal.
You may put another cymbal, a painted acrylic cymbal, or whatever you want to see on the back of the instrument.
And since it’s cold those days, I didn’t want to explore the local shops for the nice cheap stuff that would do the job. That’s why I looked for something in the house, and found something to try.
It’s a place mat coming from Ikea. This thing is so adapted to the project that dispite the seasonal laziness, I drank a warm coffee, put a coat on my back, and quickly went out to get 10 of them.
Let’s write an ‘how to’ about my 2/3zone cymbals, now.
Material list :
– Self adhesive waterproofing bitumen tape (with an aluminium or vinyl foil)
– 1 Ikea PANNÅ place mat (diam. 37cm) made of EVA (various colors available)
– A good length of extra heavy duty double sided reinforced tape (cross woven construction)
– A short length of double-sided foam tape (I do prefere to do it myself using some double-sided reinforced tape and a piece of 1mm thick neoprene foam)
– 1 acoustic cymbal
– 1 to 3 or your favorite piezo transducer.
– 1 plastic box
– 1 to 2 jack sockets
– 0 to 2 home made Piezo/Piezo to Piezo/Swicth adapter (cf. Keith Raper’s circuit)
– Wire.
Instructions :
1 – Dampening the cymbal
1zone cymbal : Cover the back of the entire cymbal with bitumen tape and cut the unwanted part around the cymbal.
Keep the bell free of bitumen tape.
Cut a small disc from the bitumen tape in order to make a room for the main piezo.
2zone / 3zone cymbal : Same technique, but you have to let about 3cm from the edge of your cymbal free of bitumen tape.
2 – Preparing the covering
Cut a disc in the centre of the place mat, the size of your bell, and a smaller one for your main piezo. Cut the unwanted part around the cymbal (if your cymbal is smaller than the covering material)
3 – Adding the electronics
A picture is probably better than a long text.
2Zone
3Zone
The main piezo (set on the bow) and the bell piezo must be fixed using double-sided foam tape (some like to use half a disc instead of a full disc under the piezo).
The edge piezo can be set using the thinner double-sided reinforced tape.
Hide the wires into the bitumen tape (cut a line).
If you want to build a simple 1zone cymbal, just keep the main piezo and forget the other piezos and the PP to PS adapter circuit.
4 – Covering the all thing
Put some double-sided reinforced tape on your bitumen tape, but don’t remove the protection yet!
Put a lot of it around the main piezo room (it will help the plastic box to stay in place later).
Make all the electronic stuff pass thru the small hole and check for bumps on the surface to cover.
Keep the covering stuff correctly placed on your cymbal and remove the tape protection little by little.
5 – Finishing
Prepare the needed holes in the plastic box for the main piezo and jack sockets. Check them twice 😉
Use a piece of double-sided reinforced tape to fix the plastic box on the covering material (when I say extra heavy duty double-sided reinforced tape in the material list, I mean really heavy duty ^^).
Secure the jack sockets and put the box cover.
Put a small disc of bitumen tape over the visible piezo transducers (it will help to secure the solder points, and be a cool thing to “choke”).
2Zone
3Zone
6 – Setting up your module
1Zone :
Plug your trigger then set the sensitivity and main parameters.
2Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch capable input.
Set the trigger type as you would do for a Piezo/Switch cymbal (CY-8 / PCY-65S, for exemple)
Set the sensitivity and main parameters.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
3Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch input + a mono input (or a dual one)
Plug the bow/edge output of the cymbal to the dual input.
Plug the bell output to the mon input of your module.
Set parameters for the bow/edge part as you would do with a 2Zone cymbal.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
Set parameters for the bell part as you would do with a 1Zone cymbal, then set its threshold so your harder tip hits on the bow don’t trigger the bell.
7 – Choke switch
The edge piezo combined to the PP to PS adapter will act as a choke switch.
Cherry on the cake 🙂
8 – Some ideas to experiment with…
– If you own a Roland 3Zone ride input, you may add a additional PP to PS adapter between the bell piezo and the Bell jack socket (sleeve/ring). Don’t forget to link the main piezo to the tip/sleeve couple of this same socket.
You’ll get the needed Bow/Edge and Bow/Bell output this way.
– If you want to use a Yamaha 3Zone input, you may use 1 single jack socket. Firstly mount the 2Zone electronic part then add a PP to PS adapter AND a 10k resistor between the bell piezo (+) and the ring of the single jack socket.
– You may build such a cymbal from a practice cymbal and use another place mat as your playing surface.
There is a lot of things to do… be creative and please share your ideas here 🙂
9 – Want to know why it works ?
Please put your request in this thread 😉
Enjoy.
www.eareckon.com
2Zone/3Zone Choke Capable Cymbal
by PFozz
I received a nice amount of requests for more info about my 3Zone HH.
Before I write something about how to build one, I had to find an easier way to do it.
I’ve tried to work with polyester resins, PVC solvent, and that kind of smelly stuff. I must say that working with these products isn’t a real pleasure for my nose and head. Hopefully, the results aren’t that impressive… Some tries were a total failure, but I’ve learnt new things about resins.
Anyway, I recently rebuilt the roof of the shed in the garden and applied some bitumen tape to waterproof the sides.
Discovering the properties of this stuff, I needed to try it on the back of an acoustic cymbal.
This thing is so efficient!
It’s easy to apply, and it perfectly dampens acoustic cymbals.
It’s thick enough and it’s flexible and so it won’t break.
It nicely sticks to metal and won’t go away but it’s still removable with some efforts.
Unfortunately, it’s kind of ugly… and you need something to put over the bitumen tape in order to get a sweet cymbal.
You may put another cymbal, a painted acrylic cymbal, or whatever you want to see on the back of the instrument.
And since it’s cold those days, I didn’t want to explore the local shops for the nice cheap stuff that would do the job. That’s why I looked for something in the house, and found something to try.
It’s a place mat coming from Ikea. This thing is so adapted to the project that dispite the seasonal laziness, I drank a warm coffee, put a coat on my back, and quickly went out to get 10 of them.
Let’s write an ‘how to’ about my 2/3zone cymbals, now.
Material list :
– Self adhesive waterproofing bitumen tape (with an aluminium or vinyl foil)
– 1 Ikea PANNÅ place mat (diam. 37cm) made of EVA (various colors available)
– A good length of extra heavy duty double sided reinforced tape (cross woven construction)
– A short length of double-sided foam tape (I do prefere to do it myself using some double-sided reinforced tape and a piece of 1mm thick neoprene foam)
– 1 acoustic cymbal
– 1 to 3 or your favorite piezo transducer.
– 1 plastic box
– 1 to 2 jack sockets
– 0 to 2 home made Piezo/Piezo to Piezo/Swicth adapter (cf. Keith Raper’s circuit)
– Wire.
Instructions :
1 – Dampening the cymbal
1zone cymbal : Cover the back of the entire cymbal with bitumen tape and cut the unwanted part around the cymbal.
Keep the bell free of bitumen tape.
Cut a small disc from the bitumen tape in order to make a room for the main piezo.
2zone / 3zone cymbal : Same technique, but you have to let about 3cm from the edge of your cymbal free of bitumen tape.
2 – Preparing the covering
Cut a disc in the centre of the place mat, the size of your bell, and a smaller one for your main piezo. Cut the unwanted part around the cymbal (if your cymbal is smaller than the covering material)
3 – Adding the electronics
A picture is probably better than a long text.
2Zone
3Zone
The main piezo (set on the bow) and the bell piezo must be fixed using double-sided foam tape (some like to use half a disc instead of a full disc under the piezo).
The edge piezo can be set using the thinner double-sided reinforced tape.
Hide the wires into the bitumen tape (cut a line).
If you want to build a simple 1zone cymbal, just keep the main piezo and forget the other piezos and the PP to PS adapter circuit.
4 – Covering the all thing
Put some double-sided reinforced tape on your bitumen tape, but don’t remove the protection yet!
Put a lot of it around the main piezo room (it will help the plastic box to stay in place later).
Make all the electronic stuff pass thru the small hole and check for bumps on the surface to cover.
Keep the covering stuff correctly placed on your cymbal and remove the tape protection little by little.
5 – Finishing
Prepare the needed holes in the plastic box for the main piezo and jack sockets. Check them twice 😉
Use a piece of double-sided reinforced tape to fix the plastic box on the covering material (when I say extra heavy duty double-sided reinforced tape in the material list, I mean really heavy duty ^^).
Secure the jack sockets and put the box cover.
Put a small disc of bitumen tape over the visible piezo transducers (it will help to secure the solder points, and be a cool thing to “choke”).
2Zone
3Zone
6 – Setting up your module
1Zone :
Plug your trigger then set the sensitivity and main parameters.
2Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch capable input.
Set the trigger type as you would do for a Piezo/Switch cymbal (CY-8 / PCY-65S, for exemple)
Set the sensitivity and main parameters.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
3Zone :
Use a dual Piezo/Switch input + a mono input (or a dual one)
Plug the bow/edge output of the cymbal to the dual input.
Plug the bell output to the mon input of your module.
Set parameters for the bow/edge part as you would do with a 2Zone cymbal.
If the the edge triggering is too sensitive, add a pot between the edge piezo and the PP to PS adapter, and adjust it.
Set parameters for the bell part as you would do with a 1Zone cymbal, then set its threshold so your harder tip hits on the bow don’t trigger the bell.
7 – Choke switch
The edge piezo combined to the PP to PS adapter will act as a choke switch.
Cherry on the cake 🙂
8 – Some ideas to experiment with…
– If you own a Roland 3Zone ride input, you may add a additional PP to PS adapter between the bell piezo and the Bell jack socket (sleeve/ring). Don’t forget to link the main piezo to the tip/sleeve couple of this same socket.
You’ll get the needed Bow/Edge and Bow/Bell output this way.
– If you want to use a Yamaha 3Zone input, you may use 1 single jack socket. Firstly mount the 2Zone electronic part then add a PP to PS adapter AND a 10k resistor between the bell piezo (+) and the ring of the single jack socket.
– You may build such a cymbal from a practice cymbal and use another place mat as your playing surface.
There is a lot of things to do… be creative and please share your ideas here 🙂
9 – Want to know why it works ?
Please put your request in this thread 😉
Enjoy.
www.eareckon.com
Can You explane how made 3 piezo in PW for a alesis trigger I/O
on the 3 frame can you make for me the shema all inclued.
im french and my english isn’t brocken …
i’m not shure that the alesis i/o can do a 3zone pad…
send me a PM in french because i don’t understand your broken english lol (mine is not good too)
an other pic :
18 inches 3zones chokable ride
pfozz i love you!!! your design is magic!
fantastic tazinnuedo,did you do it with the same resistor values as Pfozz?exact the same way? could you show a detail screenshot of your choking system? maybe a bigger explanation would be very very helpful,any retrigger problem? how them works?,please talk about them,and show us details of construction :),they look awesome.
thank you very much
i have put some variable resistance to adjust sensitivy…
for the moment i have some troubles between bow and edge because 18 inches is very big and the cymbal vibrates a little bit… i have to adjsut some details…
i will draw a schema…when i will have the time to…
but you will understand with this page http://www.hellfiredrums.com/archives/67
my previous choke were like that… (before hellfire did it) but now with this design it’s easier to do a choke switch
ORIGINAL: tazinnuedo
i have put some variable resistance to adjust sensitivy…
mm..it would be very helpful show us the variable resitance..
for the moment i have some troubles between bow and edge because 18 inches is very big and the cymbal vibrates a little bit… i have to adjsut some details…
considering you experience,which is the optimum size for a ride?(3 zones with choke)crash,hi hat advice too.
i will draw a schema…when i will have the time to…
See your new schem would be fantastic.Any problems with the original choking system?It´s not enough?
thanks in advance
for the variable resistance, it’s a 1Mohm to cold on the circuit…
i think 16inche is good for a ride… or maybe mine must be more dampened… the dampened area is a 16 inche cymbal… there are 2 inches around chere there is no bitumen tape
for hit hat… 12 or 13 inches
go on http://edrum.spaces.live.com/ it’s my web space… maybe there are explicit pics to understand… (you will see the variable resistance and a schema of the circuit)
the circuit is keith’s raper’s circuit… all infos are in the edrum workshop
no problem with the old choke switch… just more difficult i think to build it
francois
I wanna do a dual zone ride with choke and a single zone crash with choke for my ALESIS TRIGGER IO!!! Does the dual zone ride with choke works with alesis Trigger io?!?!?!?!
Dual Zone Ride : Piezo bell, Piezo Bow > connection to Jack Female Stereo.
Single Zone Crash : Piezo connection jack female mono.
The question is the CHOKE. How do i do it?!?!??!?!
Ive seen this page
http://www.vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40656&highlight=alesis+io
and the cymbals done there are so Beautiful!!!!!!!! Ive noticed they have something at the edge what is that?!?!?!?
Thx
http://www.vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40656&highlight=alesis+io
These placemats are no longer available as pictured from IKEA, unfortunately. They have a different design, but are still round so I suppose they would be fine. I’ve also thought about using a Pulse neoprene cymbal mute on the top to further deaden the metal clunk. It would be great to find something to stretch around the rim of the cymbal for aesthetic and muting reasons (it looks like the cymbal pictured with the red placemat has that, but it’s probably just your splash with the 15″ placemat underneath, eh?). Thanks for the great instruction though–I’m going to try this out asap. I was hoping to find something non-destructive since I may decide to use these cymbals again acoustically.
ORIGINAL: Tinaso
I wanna do a dual zone ride with choke and a single zone crash with choke for my ALESIS TRIGGER IO!!! Does the dual zone ride with choke works with alesis Trigger io?!?!?!?!
Dual Zone Ride : Piezo bell, Piezo Bow > connection to Jack Female Stereo.
Single Zone Crash : Piezo connection jack female mono.
The question is the CHOKE. How do i do it?!?!??!?!
Ive seen this page
http://www.vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40656&highlight=alesis+io
and the cymbals done there are so Beautiful!!!!!!!! Ive noticed they have something at the edge what is that?!?!?!?Thx
http://www.vdrums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40656&highlight=alesis+io
I have a Trigger IO on order (do not possess it yet) so I can’t confirm this personally. But from what I’ve read the Trigger IO requires an input for every event/zone/feature you want. So, for a 3 zone chokable ride you’ll need 3 piezos, 1 choke switch, 2 female jacks on the cymbal, and utilize 2 full TRS inputs on the Trigger IO. Since the Trigger IO has no intelligence or actual processing provided for anything (each of the 20 inputs are simply that, individual inputs with no relation to each other) you don’t use the Raper circuits at all. Instead, wire the bell and bow piezo to one TRS female jack. Then wire the edge piezo and choke switch to the other. I’d suggest using Hellfires choke switch http://www.hellfiredrums.com/archives/67 as it seems simple and inexpensive to implement, yet flexible as you should be able to make it any size you want. Then have fun configuring the Trigger IO to utilize all of the piezos without crosstalk and mistriggers. YIPPIE!!! 🙂
Now hurry up and construct it and post your results! 😉
Christopher Graham
Hi all, I am new to drumming. I learn a lot of diy from this forum, thanks.
I am now doing edrum mesh pads in use with my old Roland SPD-8.
I am planning to buy a Roland TD-3 Drum module. I would like to know is the three zone chokable cymbal explaned in this topic works with TD-3?
Thanks for helping.
hi!
the td3 is not able to recognize a 3 zones cymbal like a cy15… it doesn’t have the technology… but there is an alternative…even if the td3 works with a 3 zones cymbal, you’ll have to use 2 inputs ( all roland modules work in this way)
so what you can do is build your own cymbal with two separate inputs… bow and edge will work together on the same input… (look at keith raper’s design to convert a piezo like a switch) in parallel on the edge you can build a choke switch… no problem…
on the second input you will have the bell sound…
the difference between the roland technology and this method is in the last one bell input will be independant with the bow/edge input…
with roland’s technology bell inpout is dépendant (you have to hit the bell but the vibrations when you hit it must be sense by the bow piezo)
here, even if there is no vibration on the bow piezo when you hit the bell… the bell will work
in comparaison, it will be two independant cymbal in one
you will have to setup the module with the xtalkcancel etc etc not to trigger the bow to hit the bell and viceversa and try to isolate these 2 piezo…
(you can build an independant bell upper the ride to completly isolate them…)
I have a 2 question….
– Is the “Ikea PANNÅ place mat” used only to make the cymbal look better or does it have any indispensable property that I’ll have to be looking for?
– How thick does the “double-sided foam tape” have to be?
the ikea manna place mat is for the look… it may be dampen a little bit the cymbal but less than than the bitumen tape…
to solder the bitumen tape to the place mat… i used a very strong double sided tape… there are some wires into it …
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